La Capannaccia

We drive by this place every time we go up or down from Buccia Nera Agriturismo where we are staying.  Today we decided to stop by for dinner.  The place is a short drive, about 2km,  from where we are staying,  down the crazy road, it always looks busy and it has some spectacular views of Tuscan country side. It essentially is a restaurant perched on the side of the mountain, in the middle of nowhere.   We get in, and are asked if we have reservations, we don’t but we get a table anyway.  In a typical small Italian restaurant fashion, water and wine is served at the table even before we manage to sit down.  Then the waitress comes over and explains in Italian what is on today’s menu.  She is speaking very slowly because she knows we don’t speak Italian.  I am not sure how that is supposed to help but suprisingly we manage just fine.  First question, are you having 2 or 3 courses, we go for one.  She is a bit puzzled but offers some antipasti as I am sure she is afraid that after only one course we will run the risk of starving to death on the way to the car.  We get two orders of antipasti.  For antipasti we get some prosciutto,  salami, 4 different types of crostini with four different toppings.  The crostini are the size of a sandwich, and they come with tomato and garlic, olives and something pate, ricotta cheese and some other melted cheese mixture on the last one – on the service platter are two of each of these and 3 each for the meat.  On top of that we get a bowl of Italian  bread salad.  After antipasti and a  couple glasses of wine and some water we are wishing we have brought our buffet pants, soon after that come the food sweats and we are pretty much done our dinner but the appetizer size pasta is still on the way.  A full plate of home made pasta arrives that is clearly discussed as an appetizer size dish.  No sane person would eat this and then have a main course.  We struggle with the pasta, all along thinking that we are so glad we only opted for one course.  At this point we still have not seen the menu or know what we are paying for this dinner.  The restaurant is absolutely packed and today we are the only pale tourists in sight.    We manage the pasta and after a short break decided to have a coffee and a scoop of gelato – that is about all we could think of having.  What a wonderful dinner, I think about 4 words of english were exchanged.  Breathtaking views of Tuscany, amazing atmosphere and delightful food, what more could you ask for, other than buffet pants of course.











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